All posts by Dr. Marty Becker

Betta

What if your fish needs a veterinarian? Here’s what!

Fish are among the most popular pets in the world, and like all pets, sometimes they need veterinary care. Is that really possible? Yes! Here’s how I explained it to a reader.

Q: I saw a Facebook post recently about a fish being treated at a veterinary clinic. Why? How?

A: Hey, fish need veterinary care, too. People love them and develop relationships with them — really! — and fish can develop health problems that require veterinary care, just like any other animal. Fish can be examined, treated with medication, and even undergo surgery.

Fish should see the veterinarian when they lose their appetite, have their fins tightly clamped against their body, hide or spend time in a different part of the tank than where they usually hang out, don’t seem to be swimming normally, display rapid gill movements, or turn rapidly to the side, causing their scales to flash. Other possible signs of illness are a bloated appearance, spots or discoloration on the body, or ragged fins.

A common reason fish get sick is poor water quality. Just as you scoop a cat’s litter box, clean your bird’s cage or wash your dog’s bedding, you also need to perform similar “housekeeping” for fish. Each species has special environmental needs as far as saline concentration, pH levels, water temperature and cleanliness. All of those things need to be monitored, and partial water changes made regularly, to ensure that fish stay healthy.

Fish can also develop bacterial, viral or parasitic infections. To diagnose these, a veterinarian may perform a fecal test, skin — er, scale — scraping, or even a gill or fin biopsy to examine cell samples microscopically. Infections can occur when new fish are added to a tank, which is why it’s important to quarantine them first to make sure they’re healthy, just as you would before bringing in a new bird or cat, for instance.

If your fish needs to see a veterinarian, you can seek out a veterinary fish expert at fishvets.org/tools/locator/locator.asp?id=30.

There’s more – including myths about preventing and managing pain in pets – in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.

Angry or fearful dog showing aggression

What to do if a dog attacks you or your child

This is advice I hope you never need, but should know.

Q: We love dogs in our family, but I know that not every dog is friendly. What should I teach my child about how to respond if she encounters an aggressive dog?

A: Great question! That is important information for every child (and adult) to learn so they can stay safe. Being menaced or even attacked by a dog is frightening for anyone, but knowing in advance what to do can help her stay calm and act appropriately.

It’s instinctive to run or scream in the face of any dangerous animal, whether a bear, mountain lion or dog, but the best thing to do is to freeze in place, sideways to the dog, arms crossed over the body. Motion activates an animal’s chase instinct, and high-pitched screaming can make a child sound like prey.

Instead, tell her to stay still and avoid eye contact (it’s OK to watch the dog out of the corner of the eye, but never stare at him). Don’t say anything. The goal is for the animal to view your child as completely unthreatening. Then she can start to move slowly away — ideally to a spot where she’s more protected, such as behind a wall, fence, door or other barrier. If that’s not possible, she should calmly ask a passerby to help.

If a dog does attack, your child should know how to protect the most vulnerable parts of the body. Have her practice crossing her arms across her body and lifting them to cover her throat and face if the dog lunges forward. If she’s pushed down with her back to the dog, she should curl up into a ball so her knees protect her belly, keep her head down, and cross her hands over the back of her neck to protect it. Learn more about preventing dog bites here.

There’s more – including what you need to know about pet ducks – in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.

Ginger cat sitting in carton box on window sill at home.

Yes, you can keep your cat if you’re pregnant

Once and for all, no, pregnant women don’t need to “get rid” of their cats, or put them outside! Here are the facts.

Q: I’m pregnant with our first child, and my mother-in-law says we should get rid of our cat because of the risk of toxoplasmosis. Is she right?

A: You can safely keep your cat. Toxoplasma is an internal parasite that lives in the muscles of sheep, rabbits and rats. Cats who eat the meat of an infected animal can spread the parasite through their feces. If your cat lives indoors, she’s unlikely to become infected. And in most cases, only young cats pass feces contaminated with toxoplasma eggs (oocysts). If you have an adult cat, the chance of infection is very low.

Veterinarians are well informed on this subject, possibly even more than doctors, because they learn about toxoplasmosis at least four times during their education: in courses on feline medicine, parasitology, zoonotic disease and public health — including meat and food safety. I can assure you that female veterinarians and veterinary technicians don’t stop working with cats when they are pregnant. You can take the same easy precautions they do to reduce the risk of infection to the developing fetus.

  • Delegate litter-scooping duty to your spouse. (Do this before the pregnancy when attempting to conceive.)
  • Have your spouse scoop the litter box once or twice daily. Toxoplasmosis organisms need time after being passed in the cat’s feces to become infective. Frequent scooping minimizes the risk that the oocysts will be around long enough to become infective.
  • Keep your cat indoors to prevent her from hunting and eating wild prey.
  • Whether you’re cooking for yourself or your cat, cook lamb or rabbit meat well. And wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water after handling raw lamb or rabbit, just as you would with chicken, beef or other meat.

These precautions apply to anyone who is immunocompromised, not just women who are pregnant.

There’s more – including how to get a dog in the COVID era – in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.

sick kitten at vet

New cat? Time for a household poison check

If you have pets in your home, you need to put poisons in your place. And that place is completely out of their reach. Here are some specific concerns about cat poision prevention.

Q: I’m getting my first cat. Are there any household poisons or other dangers I should be concerned about?

A: Cats are not as likely as dogs to scarf up any old thing they run across, but they are still at risk of accidentally ingesting toxic substances such as ammonia, bleach, cleaning agents, disinfectants, drain cleaner, gasoline, oven cleaner, paint, and rodent poisons — all of which can kill your cat.

Maybe you mop the floor with pine-scented cleaner and your cat walks across it while it’s still damp. He then licks his paws to clean them off, and the next thing you know, he has been poisoned from ingesting the cleaner. That can happen with many substances if your cat walks through them. Antifreeze drips on the garage floor are a big concern, for instance.

Any time you use cleansers on floors, counters or other surfaces, put your cat in another room until the surface is dry or you have thoroughly wiped up the residue. Clean up antifreeze spills immediately, and never assume that poisons are out of your cat’s reach. Put anything toxic, especially if it could leak, inside a locked cabinet away from your cat’s normal living area. That includes weed killers, pesticides, turpentine and dried-up paint rollers. If you have a rodent problem, use traps that kill instantly instead of rodenticides or sticky traps that cause cruel, painful deaths.

Other household dangers include washing machines or dryers with doors left open. We know of a very sad case recently where a kitten was drowned in the washing machine because no one realized he was inside it. A cat may also find the warm interior of a dryer an inviting place to take a nap, but it could be fatal if someone turns it on without checking first.

There’s more – including pet disaster preparedness tips – in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.

Dog looking at camera standing by green bowl

How and when to feed your dog

Do you know the best way to feed a puppy or adult dog? Here’s the advice I have a reader!

Q: How often should I feed my puppy? And when she grows up, is it better to feed her once or twice a day?

A: When puppies stop nursing and start eating on their own, the breeder usually gives them four small meals a day. Their little tummies can only take in so much food at a time, after all. By the time they go to their new homes, when they are 8 to 12 weeks old, they are usually eating three meals a day to fuel growth. Take the amount the puppy should receive for the day and divide it by three to determine how much to give at each meal. Eventually, your puppy’s gargantuan appetite will start to decrease. You may notice that she picks at one of her meals or starts to leave food behind. That’s a good time to cut back to two meals daily and adjust amounts.

Feeding measured amounts at set times instead of leaving food out helps establish pee and poop schedules in puppyhood and ensures that dogs don’t overeat. One thing I like to recommend is measuring the appropriate amount of food and placing it in a dispensing toy so dogs have to “hunt” for their meals. This engages their brain and encourages physical activity. If you want to feed only once a day, this is a good way to do it.

A related question is when to stop feeding puppy food and start feeding adult food. The answer depends on the breed. Large- and giant-breed dogs should grow slowly. They’re best eating a puppy food developed to promote slow growth. Smaller dogs who enjoy eating and have a tendency to become roly-poly may do better switching to adult food at an early age, often before they are 6 months old.

There’s more in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.