All posts by Dr. Marty Becker

puppy outdoors

How to transition a puppy from a potty pad to the outdoors

Pet Connection

If you got a puppy or small dog during the winter months, you may have trained her to use a potty pad instead of waiting to be taken outdoors. Can you train her away from the pad? That was the question a reader had for me, and as usual with behavior questions, I asked my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker, to respond. Here’s what she said.

Q: We got a Shih Tzu puppy during the winter. It was really cold, so we potty trained her on pee pads. She is now 11 months old. Is there any way she will figure out that she needs to go outside to go potty?

A: You can definitely teach her that outside is the place to go, but it will take some time, training and scheduling.

Start as if she were still a puppy (and she is, mentally, even if she looks full-grown). As soon as she wakes up in the morning, pick her up and take her outside to potty so she doesn’t have the opportunity to use the pee pad. Stay with her and praise her immediately after she pees or poops. If you have a clicker, click immediately after she is done going potty, and give a treat.

Do the same thing immediately after each meal, after she wakes up from a nap or after you’ve been playing with her. If you know when she typically likes to use the pee pad, set a timer so you can take her outdoors just before she would normally use it.

Gradually move the potty pad closer to the door outside. Eventually phase out the potty pad altogether.

Tether her to you with a leash when you’re at home so you can notice instantly if she gets up and starts to move around. Restlessness can be a signal that she needs to go out.

She will probably start to develop ways to tell you that she needs to go out. These could include going to or looking at the door or stairs, whining or pawing at you. Each dog has different behaviors, so watch carefully until you know what hers are. You can read more about housetraining at fearfreehappyhomes.com.

There’s more in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.

Cat in litter box

How to stop your cat’s litter box from stinking

Pet Connection,

Cats are very clean animals, which is why litter box odor is a human problem. We don’t like the stench of cat pee, and believe me, neither do they. Here’s what my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker, and I told a reader about why it smells so bad and what to do about it.

Q: Ugh! Why does my cat’s litter box stink?

A: We hear you! Poop can be removed with a scooper, and so can a certain amount of urine if you use litter that absorbs liquid and forms a clump, but the pungent reek of ammonia can still remain until the litter is changed or the box itself is cleaned.

No one likes the smell of ammonia, which has a characteristic odor best described as “decaying fish.” As urine decomposes, ammonia is the primary compound released by odorant molecules.

Urea, the primary component of urine, is odorless, but as it goes through bacterial decomposition, an enzyme called urease forms and converts urea into ammonia. Cat urine tends to contain a higher amount of urea than the urine of other animals, including dogs and humans.

Another chemical compound that contributes to the scent of cat urine is felinine, a urinary amino acid. Like urea, it has no odor — until it starts to degrade. Then it releases sulfur compounds, known as thiols, that cause a sour odor.

Other factors include the cat’s age and sex. Older cats typically have less efficient kidneys, and that can contribute to extra-stinky urine. Male cats also produce urine with an especially offensive odor, thanks to the presence of testosterone. They also have higher levels of felinine in their urine.

Cats have a highly developed sense of smell. If they stop using the litter box, it may well be because they find the stink as offensive as you do. To keep odor down, scoop every time you see that your cat has used the box, dump old litter after two weeks and replace it with new — after you’ve cleaned the box with warm water and a mild, unscented soap. You’ll both be happier.

There’s more in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.

Funny cute red kitten. Ginger red kitten thinking. Long haired red kitten. Sweet adorable sad red kitten on sofa background.

Yes, your cat can enjoy going to the vet. Here’s how

Fear Free, Pet Connection, Veterinary Medicine,

A cat enjoying a trip to the vet? No, it’s not fantasy. It’s possible if you know the right steps to take. I outline them here for a reader.

Q: It was always a struggle to get my previous cat to the vet. Now that I have a new kitten, do you have any advice on ways to ensure that I can take him to the vet without a fight?

A: I think one of the reasons people avoid taking cats to the veterinarian is because the visit can be stressful to both cat and human. It doesn’t have to be, though. Here are some easy steps you can take to help your kitten or cat feel comfortable on the way to the clinic and during the examination.

— Accustom your kitten to a carrier. Leave the carrier sitting open in the house so your kitten can explore it, nap in it and even eat meals in it. Line it with a blanket or towel sprayed with a feline pheromone to make it welcoming, and put treats inside it as an occasional surprise. Reward your cat any time you see him inside the carrier. When your kitten does need to go for a ride in it, the experience won’t be scary. Hint to other readers: You can use the same techniques with an adult cat.

— Schedule veterinary visits at a time of day when your kitten or cat hasn’t just eaten. She’ll be less likely to suffer motion sickness and more interested in getting treats from veterinary staff. Bring a good supply of her favorite treat, whether that is a store-bought goody, deli turkey or small bits of cantaloupe — yes, some cats love the fragrant melon.

— Make the first appointment with the veterinarian a fun one. No shots, just a weigh-in and some treats and petting from the staff. Think of it as a “getting to know you” visit.

You can find more tips on making veterinary visits pleasant for cats at fearfreehappyhomes.com.

There’s more in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.

Little tabby kitten hiding behind a curtain.

How to cat-proof your house

Pet Connection

Cats can get into things dogs and human babies can’t even imagine! Here’s what I told a reader asking for cat-proofing advice before bringing home her first feline.

Q: I’m getting my first cat, and I want to make sure my home is safe for her. What should I be concerned about?

A: Lots of things in your home can injure your cat, make her sick or even kill her. Be vigilant when it comes to the following items.

— Poisons. Mouse and rat bait, insecticides and herbicides, antifreeze, and medications for yourself or other animals in the home are all substances that can kill cats. If a contractor or landscaper treats your home for insects or other pests, confirm that the products will not be used in areas where your cat goes. Any time a product is applied to a lawn, floor or other surface, keep your cat away from that area until the product has dried. It’s all too common for cats to walk across a treated surface and then lick their paws to clean them. Clean up antifreeze drips immediately, and keep any medications behind closed doors. Parasite preventives made for dogs are often toxic to cats, so don’t let them share.

— Plants. Some cats enjoy chewing grass or nibbling on plants. If yours is one of them, don’t keep any of the following in your home or yard: azalea, chrysanthemum, crocus, cyclamen, dieffenbachia, English ivy, lilies, philodendron, Sago palm, tulip bulbs and yew. A more complete list is available from the ASPCA or pet poison hotlines.

— Household items. Cats aren’t as bad as dogs when it comes to gulping things down, but it’s not for nothing that we have the saying “curiosity killed the cat.” Candles, coins, mothballs, nutshells and potpourri are just a few potentially toxic items commonly found in homes. Assume that your cat might investigate these and other items, and keep them out of reach.

There’s more in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.

cat resting

When there’s a mass on your cat’s liver

Pet Connection, Veterinary Medicine, ,

A reader wrote asking about a mass recently diagnosed on her cat’s liver. This condition is known as a biliary cyst. Here’s what I told her about it.

A: That’s an interesting question. A biliary cyst is a large, fluid-filled growth on the bile duct system of the liver. It’s the most common type of liver mass seen in cats, but the incidence isn’t very high — about 5.5%. Biliary cysts usually affect senior cats older than 10 years.

Cats with biliary cysts may have a decreased appetite and lose weight. If the mass is large enough — some can be the size of a softball — it may put pressure on the stomach and cause discomfort. The condition is usually diagnosed with an abdominal ultrasound exam.

The good news is that the cysts are benign and don’t spread elsewhere in the body. The bad news is that they often require surgical removal, the sooner the better. Fortunately, they don’t typically invade the liver, so the surgery tends to be uncomplicated.

One potential risk, though, is excessive bleeding, which sometimes occurs when tumors are removed from the liver. Another is if cats refuse to eat after surgery, especially if those cats are overweight. It might seem like a good way for the cat to lose some weight, but lack of appetite is downright dangerous for fat cats because it puts them at risk for a serious condition called hepatic lipidosis. These cats may need to have a feeding tube placed to make sure they take in enough nutrition until they recover.

Generally, the prognosis is good for cats with biliary cysts. Once the mass is removed, it usually doesn’t return quickly. Depending on location and whether a cat has complications, the cost of surgery and aftercare can approach $6,000, but a good pet health insurance policy will cover most of the expense.

There’s more in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.