All posts by Dr. Marty Becker

Do indoor cats need microchips?

Pet Connection

All our pets are microchipped, including our indoor cat, Talley. And she, like her dog siblings, wears ID at all times. Here’s how I explained my reasons to a cat owner who wrote asking about ID and chipping for her indoor cat.

Q: My new cat will be indoor-only. Does she still need a collar and tag or a microchip?

A: The one thing we know for sure about cats is that they do things their way, and they have ways of getting around our plans for them. No matter how careful you are, there’s always a chance that your cat could slip out an open door or window without anyone noticing. When that happens, wearing an identification tag and being microchipped can be his key to getting back inside.

A collar with an identification tag is the most obvious way to alert someone that your cat has a home with people who love her. Tags are visible and can be engraved with multiple phone numbers: landline (if you still have one), cellphone and your veterinarian’s number. Choose a breakaway collar that will release under pressure in case your cat gets hung up on something.

Of course, collars and tags can come off. Cats are notoriously Houdini-like when it comes to getting out of collars. And collars can be removed by others. Keep a couple of extra collars and tags on hand in case you need to make replacements.

And have a second line of defense to help ensure your cat’s return: a microchip. This permanent form of identification cannot be removed, but of course it’s invisible to the naked eye. Veterinarians and shelters have scanners that can read microchips. Be sure your cat’s microchip is registered with an organization that will provide 24-hour notification that your cat has been found. You can attach the tag with the registry’s phone number to the collar with your cat’s ID tag. Keep your phone number and address up to date with the registry so you can be easily contacted.

There’s more in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.

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Happy Labor Day!

This and That

To all my veterinary colleagues working in emergency medicine; to doctors, nurses, and other human medical workers; to police officers firefighters, EMTs, and other first responders; to people working in animal shelters and staffing adoption events; to every restaurant or retail worker, every flight attendant and pilot; to our armed forces; and to everyone who is working to make sure we’re safe, fed, and happy this holiday weekend: thank you.

And to those of us lucky enough to be free to barbecue, swim, and hit the beaches, Happy Labor Day and don’t forget those who aren’t as fortunate as we are!

dog paw and human hand

Getting a blood draw from your pet the Fear Free way

Fear Free, Pet Connection, Veterinary Medicine

How do veterinarians and veterinary nurses get blood from zoo animals? They train them using positive reinforcement to offer a limb for the blood draw. You can reach your pet the exact same thing! Here’s how I explained it to a reader:

Q: My dog hates having blood drawn, but he has a health condition that means it must be done on a regular basis. Is there any way to help him become less fearful about it?

A: Believe it or not, there is. If zoo animals can learn to voluntarily offer a limb for a blood draw — and they do — so can your dog. Here are some tips.

First, teach your dog to offer his paw or leg. If he already knows “shake” or “high five,” this will be easy to do.

Ask the veterinary technician or veterinarian to show you how and where to hold your dog’s leg as if he were going to receive a blood draw, as well as where the blood will be drawn. At home, practice holding the leg in position. Moisten the area where the vein is with water or alcohol to prepare him for the sensation and scent of the alcohol rubdown. To simulate the feel of the needle, gently tap the area where the vein is using a toothpick or paper clip. All the while, give your dog high-level treats: cheese, warm deli turkey, hotdogs, whatever he delights in.

Do this daily for a month to help him become accustomed to being handled that way. Let him walk away if he wants, but stop the treats if he does so. Perform the training in a specific place each time so that he knows what’s going to happen there. If he goes to that place on his own, reward him for it and do a quick practice.

Do everything slowly, step by step, until your dog is comfortable with it. The next time you are at the veterinary clinic, continue to provide your dog with high-value treats during the procedure. See FearFreeHappyHomes.com for more tips.

There’s more in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.

Taking the ‘pet’ out of ‘petrified’ one shelter at a time

Fear Free, Rescue,

Today, an estimated 13,000 sheltering organizations care for an estimated 6-7 million homeless animals annually—mostly cats and dogs. Organizations vary in size from those that are very large, handling tens of thousands of animals per year, to those that are very small, including grassroots groups and private individuals.

For some animals, the amount of time spent in the care of a sheltering organization is brief. Others, however, spend extended amounts of time, ultimately remaining in shelter facilities for months, years, or even for the duration of their lives.

Admission to any shelter or rescue is stressful for animals. The strange sights, smells, and sounds combined with the presence of unfamiliar people and animals cause uneasiness, thus almost all animals experience at least some degree of fear and anxiety following admission. Their day-to-day interactions may be inconsistent and unpredictable, making it difficult for them to learn what to expect and more difficult for them adapt.

This is why we have launched a free online program specifically for shelter, rescue group, and animal welfare staff and volunteers! The Fear Free Shelter Program provides training for all of the people involved in the care and oversight of shelter and rescue animals—from medical and behavioral staff to intake, reception, kennel, and cattery staff to animal control officers, adoption counselors, foster caregivers, and shelter volunteers.

You can learn more at www.fearfreeshelters.com, and be sure to let your local shelters and rescues know about this amazing new resource available to them at no cost!

Signs a dog is healthy

Pet Connection, Veterinary Medicine,

You’ve probably seen television doctors talking about a patient’s “vitals.” That’s something we measure in veterinary medicine, too. Here’s how I explained it to a reader.

Q: What are vital signs in dogs, and what do I need to know about them?

A: Vital signs are just what they sound like: indicators of life and health. Specifically, they are body temperature, pulse rate and respiratory rate. It’s a good idea to know what your dog’s vital signs are when he’s healthy and feeling good so that you will recognize the difference if he gets sick.

Normal body temperature for a dog is 101.5 degrees Fahrenheit, but a normal range is 100.2 degrees to 102.8 degrees. Any time your dog’s temperature is lower than 100 degrees or higher than 103.5 degrees, he needs to see the veterinarian right away. A high temperature, or fever, can be caused by heatstroke, bacterial or viral infections, uncontrolled seizures or other conditions. A lower-than-normal temperature may be caused by hypothermia (exposure to cold) or shock, kidney failure or certain types of heart disease.

The normal pulse rate for a dog is 75 to 120 beats per minute (bpm). The rate varies depending on the dog’s size, age and health. You can feel your dog’s pulse if you press your finger against the blood vessel in the V-shaped area where the undersides of the hind legs join the body. To get the bpm, count the beats for 10 seconds, then multiply by 6 to get the total for one minute.

Respiratory rate is the number of breaths your dog takes per minute. In healthy dogs, the normal respiratory rate is 15 to 20 breaths per minute. Get to the veterinarian if you notice that your dog’s breathing is shallow, labored or rapid. More than 35 breaths per minute is cause for concern and warrants a trip to the veterinarian right away.

There’s more in Pet Connection, the weekly nationally syndicated pet feature I co-write with Kim Campbell Thornton and my daughter, trainer Mikkel Becker.